Sweet tartlets and salt-dried cod – the twin tastes of the Portuguese capital, Lisbon
© Cristóbal Schmal

Lisbon – One city, two faces

  • ILLUSTRATION CRISTÓBAL SCHMAL

Lisbon usually smacks of salt: The wind blowing off the Atlantic and the melancholy strains of fado bring tears to your eyes. But Lufthansa’s city of the month has a sweet side, too – we show you both

Sweet tartlets and salt-dried cod – the twin tastes of the Portuguese capital, Lisbon
© Cristóbal Schmal

Ladies’ choice

Fátima Lopes, Portugal’s most illustrious fashion designer, sells skimpy, sassy, sexy pieces at her boutique. Guaranteed to turn heads!

Sweet tartlets and salt-dried cod – the twin tastes of the Portuguese capital, Lisbon
© Cristóbal Schmal

Sweet nothings

Pastéis de Belém – delicious flaky pasty tarts filled with vanilla cream – are a Portuguese delicacy. The confectioner of the same name bakes 20 000 every day.

Sweet tartlets and salt-dried cod – the twin tastes of the Portuguese capital, Lisbon
© Cristóbal Schmal

A drop by the Douro

Sweet, quaffable, potent: The Solar do Vinho do Port bar has 200 kinds of port  – in fact, there’s hardly a port producer not represented here.

Sweet tartlets and salt-dried cod – the twin tastes of the Portuguese capital, Lisbon
© Cristóbal Schmal

Handsome bunch

Heartthrob Cristiano Ronaldo no longer plays in Lisbon, but the current Sporting Lisbon squad (Ronaldo’s former club) are both athletic and good looking.

Sweet tartlets and salt-dried cod – the twin tastes of the Portuguese capital, Lisbon
© Cristóbal Schmal

Lover’s lookout

Need a spot for a romantic rendezvous? The Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara vantage point is a classic place for a passionate clinch.

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Sweet tartlets and salt-dried cod – the twin tastes of the Portuguese capital, Lisbon
© Cristóbal Schmal

Fish forever

Once upon a time, no Portuguese ship set sail without its store of bacalhau (salted cod) on board. The dried fish remains a national specialty to this day.

Sweet tartlets and salt-dried cod – the twin tastes of the Portuguese capital, Lisbon
© Cristóbal Schmal

Vibrations of the heart

Fiery guitar music and singing that will make you want to cry: Fado is infused with longing and melancholy, and reveals Lisbon’s very soul.

Sweet tartlets and salt-dried cod – the twin tastes of the Portuguese capital, Lisbon
© Cristóbal Schmal

Ships ahoy!

The Maritime Museum houses 17 000 exhibits. Many famous navigators set off to explore the world from the Portuguese capital in the 15th and 16th centuries.

Sweet tartlets and salt-dried cod – the twin tastes of the Portuguese capital, Lisbon
© Cristóbal Schmal

Surfers’ delight

Lisbon has some magnificent beaches practically on its doorstep, but ­Ericeira, just 50 kilometers to the north, is also a spectacular surf spot.

Sweet tartlets and salt-dried cod – the twin tastes of the Portuguese capital, Lisbon
© Cristóbal Schmal

Take to the hills!

Prepare to perspire when you explore this city, which is said to have been built on seven hills. In fact, it straddles eight, and some are very steep.